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1963 Ford Galaxie 500 For Sale
1963 Ford Galaxie 500

1963 Ford Galaxie 500


Car make & model:
Year:
Exterior color: Condition:
Interior color: Engine:
Transmission: Mileage:
Drivetrain: Fuel Type:
Airbags: Warranty:
Extended Warranty Quote
VIN#
Vehicle History Report
Documentation:
Owners Manual, Service Manual

Shipping: Auto Transport Quote Price: $7000.00

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Up for auction is our 1963 Ford Galaxie 500 4-door sedan. The car has spent it\'s entire life here in the Omaha area, and based on info from the previous owner, who personally knew the original owner, I believe I am 4th in line of ownership. I bought it with around 95000 miles, and it now shows just over 500. I watched it click over 100k just this year. I was told the original owner parked it for many years, the second owner was a young kid who pulled it out of the barn and tried to get her going again, and the third owner did the bulk of the work to get her on the road and running reliably. It has been in my possession for almost 7 years now, and she has never once stranded me. I have just completed a major re-do of most of the drivetrain, chassis, and wiring, and I am ready to pass it on to someone else for their enjoyment. My kids have grown up with this ride, and we have taken it to many car shows and donut shops. I have my daily driver parked outside and a project in play for a family member. With winter coming, I\'d like to clear out a garage space. I will be as descriptive as possible, as I know buying a car without actually seeing it in person is very difficult. There are many great things about it, and a few items that need to be addressed. Please do not hesitate to ask any and all questions.


First off, I have a clean and clear Nebraska title, and to my knowledge, the car has never suffered any accident damage. The engine is a newly built 306 cubic inch efi small block ford. It is a roller style 5.0/302 with GT40P heads, Macs ceramic coated headers, flowmaster/thrush exhaust, and explorer front serpentine accessories and induction. The engine is computer controlled and has a custom tuned factory explorer computer, which utilizes distributorless ignition, multi port fuel injection, new FiTech fuel command center, and an OBDII data port in the cabin for pulling check engine codes. The idea was to make it something my wife could easily drive, and I believe that has been achieved. Turn the key and go! No more temperamental carbs to deal with. The engine has a oil pan leak that has been driving me nuts. I installed a new pan and one piece silicone gasket. It leaked, so I siliconed up the corners and reinstalled. That fixed the front, but the back still leaks. It was a cheapo aftermarket pan, and I assume that\'s the issue. It\'s possible some more sealant would do the trick, but don\'t know for sure. New spark plugs and new spark plug wires. Quiet version gear drive. Lunati high performance cam, roller rockers, new valves and valve springs to handle the cam lift. The transmission is a 4R70W overdrive automatic transmission that the computer also controls. It had 80k on it out of a mustang and I did a \"J-mod\" to it, and installed a new filter and fluid. It shifts with no issues. The only transmission problem is that it does not have a mechanical speedo provision, so currently the speedo and odometer are not hooked up, as they are mechanically cable driven. This can be addressed by several aftermarket systems or an electronic tach, but the original cable is still in the car and in working order. The rear end is the original factory ford 9\" axle. I just rebuilt it and installed 3.70 gears and a fully rebuilt posi unit with all new seals and bearings throughout. I probably put too many shims in the posi unit, as it chirps and shudders when turning. People have told me over time it will loosen up. I\'m not so sure about that, and it\'s pretty annoying to be honest. I had every intention of pulling a shim or two out, just never got around to it. It\'s a cheap and easy fix if you do it yourself, but it just takes time. The car has 4 wheel power disc brakes and a new booster and dual reservoir master cylinder. I think it stops pretty well for such a huge heavy car. All the original E-Brake components will be included, but they were never connected to the new disc setup. It will work, just needs a connection figured out from the old to the new. As for the interior, it is pretty much stock and in really nice condition. Not perfect, but very presentable. Only thing that really needs attention is a couple of the knob faceplates broke and fell off, but this does not affect use at all. I just installed a brand new sound system; kenwood head unit with mp3 and bluetooth, 4 new 6.5\" high quality MTX speakers, a amp and kicker subwoofers in the trunk, and power antenna. It sounds awesome. Most of the interior was soundproofed with Kilmat when I installed the sound equipment. There are 6 laps belts, one for every seat in the car. All the gauges work (except for speedo/odo, as previously mentioned). I have converted the vast majority of the car over to LED lighting. I left the headlights alone, as well as the dash dummy lights, but I think everything else is LED now. The wiring of the car was good when I got it, but to make this new engine and computer setup work, I did quite a bit of new wiring and integration into the original harness, including a new fuse and relay panel under the dash. All the connections are done right, with crimped and soldered connections and marine grade glue infused heat shrink, but it could probably use a little more looming, organizing, and basic tidying up under the dash. The battery is coming up on 5 years old. No indications of it going out, but I start to distrust them after that long. The air conditioning system has been completely rebuilt, aside from the used explorer compressor, which still had pressure on it when I removed it. New hoses, flushed and pressure tested condenser and evaporator, new receiver/drier, and new expansion valve. It just needs freon added now. I was going to wait to do that until spring. The body is mostly in good shape. All the factory trim is there, miraculously, and it\'s very nice other than a few dings and scratches. The peacock blue paint is original and in most places it is still shiny and vibrant. There are a few wear marks, dents, flakes, and dings. I have had most of the car apart, and I have only found rust around the rear wheel wells/fender lips and the battery tray. A front fender has a small area of rust near the bottom but it seems to look more like something hit it from the backside and caused damage as opposed to rotting through. All in all, for a 55 year old midwestern car, it\'s remarkably good. A body shop owner went over it for me and said all the rust areas are easily fixable. The frame is solid, the rockers are solid, and I have never even found a pinhole in the floors. The car is lowered with new moog coil springs in the front, and small lowering blocks in the back. All new ball joints up front and lower A-arm offset shaft eliminators are installed (big deal for geometry and alignment). New shocks all four corners, but I\'m not happy with the fronts ones. I just installed a brand new power steering system that turns it like a dream. New borgeson steering box, new oem explorer pump, new hoses, new filter, new fluid. The car used to be a nightmare to turn at low speeds. Now it takes one finger. Wheels and tires are also brand new. Vision torque 143 gunmetal 20\" wheels with matching Champiro 245/35/ZR20 tires, and a fresh alignment. After adding the disc brakes, the wheel track width was pushed out a bit and this caused some tire rubbage with the left front tire. It mangled up the fender lip, which caused some paint damage, but I massaged it back into place with a little more clearance than before. It hasn\'t rubbed since. The back wheels will rub a bit with enough weight on board and a hard bump. Nothing too bad. But understand that the car sits pretty low. If it was raised a bit, I doubt anything would ever rub, but I like \'em low.
Sorry about the length of the description, but I want to make sure everyone gets the information they need to make a decision on whether to place a bid or not. I am an honest guy who wants the buyer to be happy. We have had a tremendous amount of fun with the car and made some great memories in it. I hope all the same for the new owner. Please don\'t hesitate to ask any questions. And if you\'re local and want to see it, I\'m open to that. Buyer is 100% responsible with shipping arrangement and costs, if necessary, but I will help however possible with loading. I will not have anything to do with shipping out of country. If I forgot something, I\'ll add it as soon as I can. Thank you for looking and good luck if you decide to bid!

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