67 68 Mustang Shelby Eleanor Fastback Roll Bar For Sale
67 68 Mustang Shelby Eleanor Fastback Roll Bar
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The installation instructions are below, keep scrolling down the page. This is a fabricated steel roll bar made to fit \'67-\'68 Mustang fastbacks. It is made from 1 3/4\" x .095 mild steel tubing. It is mandrel bent and MIG welded.The floor plates are .120\", and the roof tabs are .187\". It was copied from an original \'67 Shelby roll bar and it does fit the car nicely. It will also fit Dynacorn bodies, but may need slight adjustments. It bolts to the upper roof structure where the original Mustang shoulder harness\'s went, and it bolts or welds to the floor at the bottom. It will require notching of the fiberglass quarter panels,just like the original Shelby\'s. I have built and sold over 300 of these bars to satisfied customers in my fabrication shop over the last14 years.-THE UPPER ROOF BRACKETS MUST BE WELDED ON BY THE CUSTOMER. THE PHOTOS OF THE WELDED ROOF BRACKETS ARE FOR THE LISTING ONLY, THEY MUST BE WELDED ON BY THE CUSTOMER.-DUE TO UPS AND FEDEX SHIPPING GUIDELINES, I CAN NO LONGER WELD THE UPPER ROOF BRACKETS ON AS THAT WILL PUT IT IN AN OVERSIZE CATEGORY AND SHIPPING IS ASTRONOMICAL.
There are NO brackets installed that will allow the installation of original Shelby inertia reels!!
I no longer install the upper 5 point harness tabs because the \"Y\" style shoulder harness is getting hard to find, and racing sanctioning bodies no longer allow the \"Y\" style shoulder harness that will bolt on to the roll bar. The best method of installing a 5 point aftermarket harness is to use the belts that wrap around the roll bar individually with no tab or bolt needed.
Roll Bar Installation Instructions
The rollbar is shipped bare because putting it in a box willexced the dimensions and put it in the oversize category. Shipping the bars ina box really did nothing to protect them, and added to the cost as well as theshipping cost. FedEx does not allow shrink wrap to package anything, so thiswas deemed the best way to ship these by a FedEx shipping consultant.
The upper roof brackets come marked left and right and the rollbar is marked where they need to be welded.
-The upper roof brackets need to be spaced away from the roof structure to allow for the headliner, factory shoulder harnesses and to allow the rollbar to be slipped in. The approximate starting point of spacing the brackets is 1/2\". This is best done by using a stack of washers. Your dimension may be different depending on your car and where it was built.
-The fiberglass side panels next to the seat will need to beremoved to install this roll bar.
-The upper tabs will bolt to the inner roof structure wherethe original shoulder harnesses attached.
-The roll bar upper mounting tabs face the front of the carwhen installed correctly.
-The lower part of the roll bar will bolt or weld (weldingis preferred) to the part of the floor that is under the fiberglass sidepanels. The lower roll bar mounting plate will end up in front of the raised(app. 1”) flange that goes across the floor. THE LOWER PART OF THE ROLL BARDOES NOT END UP ON THE BOTTOM PART OF THE FLOOR THAT WILL END UP CARPETED WHENTHE CAR IS FINISHED.
-THE UPPER ROLL BAR MOUNTING TABS ARE NOT TOO NARROW FORYOUR CAR!!!! (READ BELOW)
-Because Ford built Mustangs at three different plants inthe 60’s, each had slightly different dimensions where the roll bar needs to bebolted to the roof and the distance from the floor to the shoulder harnessmounting bolt. It would be cost prohibitive to build a roll bar to fit carsbuilt at all three different plants, so I built one jig that will produce aroll bar that will fit cars built at all three plants. Because of this fact,the upper tab width of the roll bar will be slightly smaller than the width ofthe inner roof structure. Some buyers of this roll bar will choose to installthe stock shoulder harnesses, which will bolt on between the inner roofstructure and the upper roll bar tabs, taking up some of the gap. There alsohas to be a small gap left in order for the headliner to be slipped into place.The rest of the gap can be taken up with custom steel or aluminum spacers, orSAE flat washers.
-Once you have the roll bar correctly oriented with theupper tabs facing forward, now will be the time to see if you can get themounting bolts (not provided because of too many lengths) in the roofstructure. Some will bolt right in with ease, others will require some tweakingof the upper roof tabs, enlarging the holes slightly in the tabs, or both.
-If there is a gap where the roll bar attaches to the floor,it will need to be built up using 1/8”, 3/16”, or ¼” flat plate that willeither weld or bolt under the lower roll bar mounting plates. Some cars willrequire this, others will not.
-With the roll bar bolted in place,(do not weld the bottomyet) measurements can be taken vertically and horizontally from a knownreference point and transferred to the fiberglass side panels. The notches inthe fiberglass can be made with a 1 ¾” hole saw, and a die grinder. It is bestto start small, removing a little bit of material at a time until the sidepanel fits nicely. Since the roll bar is not yet welded at the bottom, it canstill be moved slightly front to back and side to side for the best fit withthe side panels.
-When everything fits good, the bottom plates can be weldedin with at least a 130 amp MIG, TIG or arc welder.
